Along the Dalesway

The Dales Way long distance footpath skirts the Scargill estate, on its way from Ilkley to Bowness in the Lake District. It makes for a good walk up the hillside, along a decent track at this point. 

Despite the drizzle, it was good to keep stopping to look back - gave me a breather too, as the track is quite steep here. You can literally see the weather coming at you along the valley!

Eventually the track levels out onto a flattish ridge, and here the views are broader as the valley opens out to the south. You can perhaps make out the overhang of Kilnsey Crag in the middle distance of the picture below.  An outcrop of limestone, it's a magnet for climbers. 

Up here there's also a small patch of limestone pavement, its deep fissures holding ferns and mosses. I always feel like I'm back in my school geography lessons when I'm up here. I can hear my teacher explaining about 'clints and grikes', and teaching us how contours on maps work, by use of a nifty plasticine 'hill' in a tub that she filled up with water, stopping every inch to gouge a contour line in the 'hill'.  

Water and woodland

I took a friend up to Kettlewell, in Upper Wharfedale, for the day recently. She is thinking of having a retreat and I suggested the Christian community at Scargill as a possible place to stay. It seemed a good idea to visit for the day to show her what it's like. It's one of my best loved places, only an hour's drive, and very much a 'thin place' that enables a deep spiritual connection. We stopped for a coffee at the café at Kilnsey Trout Fishery. The view over the fishing lakes is a favourite of mine and I always take a photo there. The leafy trees meant you couldn't see the imposing overhang of Kilnsey Crag in the distance but it's still a gorgeous vista. 

After exploring Scargill House, its chapel and its grounds we went for a walk up through the woods at the back of the estate, along a track that leads up to the Dalesway long distance footpath. We didn't go very far as it was rather wet, but we did go through the gate that I love on that path. It always feels like passing 'from darkness into light' along there! 

A favourite spot

On the way out for a walk in Upper Wharfedale, I stopped for coffee at what is perhaps one of my favourite spots in the whole world: the trout farm at Kilnsey, which has a fishing lake, a nature reserve and a very nice coffee shop. The site adjoins the hamlet of Kilnsey, with the magnificent Kilnsey Crag as its backdrop. It is delightful. 

Rain-drenched Kilnsey

A friend and I set off recently, planning to walk along the river in Grassington and then have lunch somewhere... but as we drove up through Wharfedale the rain came down hard. We ended up driving to Kilnsey Trout Farm - a beautiful spot even on such a dreadful day - and had a lengthy coffee stop in the café there. Kilnsey Crag, at the far side of the fishing lakes, is more visible through the trees in winter. The little beck that flows down to the Wharfe was in full spate. 

It was so full that it was flowing over the old clapper bridge, though the more modern wooden bridge at the entrance to the farm park is slightly higher and was just about clear of the water. The fields around the Wharfe were boggy but not completely flooded; a lot of the water has moved further downstream to Ilkley and beyond. As we drove up, the Aire valley flood plain around Silsden and Skipton was saturated. It looks very different - and not unattractive - when fields become lakes and the flood plain does its job of soaking up the excess. There's really nowhere to stop along the trunk road, or I might have taken some photos there. 

It wasn't really the day out we'd planned. I feel I may be turning into my mother, going 'out for a drive' rather than a walk! We even ended up at the Keelham Farm Shop outside Skipton, to complete the 'retired/elderly people' trope! But I am retired and also still trying to return to my usual self after Covid, so there's no point in being sad about it. I don't think I'm really in much danger of becoming 'elderly' yet!

Snowdrops and sunshine

I had a short break in the Yorkshire Dales at the beginning of March. Driving up through Upper Wharfedale, I stopped at Kilnsey Trout Farm, expecting their very nice café to be open. Sadly it wasn't, and I didn't get any refreshments until much later. It seems Mondays and Tuesdays are closing days in the Dales.  

As always, I enjoyed the lovely view of Kilnsey Crag across the fishing lake. I reckon that blue sky really suits the Dales scenery, despite it generally being frowned on by photographers (boring, chocolate-boxy). A harbinger of Spring, a swathe of snowdrops added to the beauty. (Spring marches on. Now, a mere three weeks later, the snowdrops have been replaced by crocus and daffodils everywhere.) 

Even though the café was closed, there were several people fishing around the lake. (All men; I wonder if there are ever any female anglers? I've never seen one.) As I was watching, one of them landed a trout, though it didn't make much fuss being caught. I expected much more splashing about but it was reeled in and neatly netted so that I hardly got time to capture the moment.  

Kilnsey Park

No trip to Kilnsey would be complete without stopping for a brief look at what I consider one of the most attractive vistas in the dale - looking across one of the trout fishing lakes at Kilnsey Park, towards Kilnsey Crag. The ancient hamlet of Kilnsey sits under the crag, with very old houses, some dating back to the 17th century.  It was at one time a busy place, situated on a drovers' route that was once a Roman road.  

One man and his dog

'One Man and His Dog' was a popular TV series that ran for years, staging sheepdog trials and showing the wonderful communication skills between the shepherd and his dog. Sheepdog trials are a regular feature at Kilnsey Show and I still find it fascinating to watch the dogs at work. Each dog had to herd four sheep through a series of gates and then into a small pen. They also do manoeuvres like separating one sheep out from the rest, a necessary skill on the farm. Against the backdrop of the beautiful Dales scenery, it is really pleasant just to watch and enjoy the skill. 

Talking of shepherds, I always enjoy seeing the displays of walking sticks and shepherds' crooks at the Show. The one below had the head of an otter carved as the handle. 
 

Sheep business

I love to see the earnest discussions that go on among the farmers around the sheep pens at Kilnsey Show. It's a serious business - there's a lot of money and kudos involved if you have an award winner among your flock. The lad above looked really pleased with his Champion sheep. 

Meanwhile, the judging was still going on. If you want your sheep to stand still, cup it under the chin - that seems to be the drill. I think the lady in the background was trying it on herself! 

 

Heavy horses

I have agricultural workers and horsemen in my family tree, right up until the early 20th century. Perhaps that's why I love to see the heavy horses - groomed, primped and decorated as befits 'Show time'. Look at the soft, silky feathering of hair on their legs, distinctive of Clydesdales and Shire horses - and look at the gorgeous foal too (below). These days they are mainly used as show breeds, though you do occasionally still see them pulling drays. For years, heavy horses used to pull a tanker of water around Bradford city centre to water the Council's flower displays.  Sadly, budget cuts put an end to that some years ago. 

 

With 'ag labs' in the family, I was also fascinated to see the 18th and 19th century agricultural machinery on display. The vintage threshing machine (below) would have been driven by a horse-powered gin. The horse walked round and round in a circle, driving a shaft that powered the machinery. Before its invention, threshing was done by hand with flails and small hand-powered threshers (often worked by children), and it's interesting to note that some machines were smashed up by agricultural labourers who (with reason) feared for their jobs as machinery was introduced. 

Most farms and smallholdings would have had a butter churner: 

All creatures great and small

You wouldn't believe how many different varieties of sheep there are at Kilnsey Show; few had horns as magnificent as this fellow though. Sadly, I don't know my Swaledales from my Lonks, my Mules, my Rough Fell or my Dalesbred so I wouldn't like to hazard a guess as to what breed this one is. 

The highland cattle were close contenders in the horn stakes, mind you:

The alpaca - no horns but plenty of fluff:

These two Border collies were waiting their turn in the sheepdog trials. They're the classic British sheepdog - highly intelligent, highly trainable, athletic and very hard-working - and utterly beautiful, I think. Years ago, I used to work in a building where the caretaker had working sheepdogs. One had puppies and they were adorable. It was only the realisation of how much they need exercise and proper training that stopped me taking one home! 

Kilnsey Show

Last week saw the welcome return of Kilnsey Show, first mounted in 1897 and now one of the biggest one-day agricultural shows in Yorkshire, showcasing Dales farming life and businesses. It was dull and unseasonably cold. In fact, so cold that I had to buy myself a fleece gilet to add to the T-shirt, fleece and coat I was already wearing! Luckily there were several 'country wear suppliers' there. I forget that you get colder just mooching around than striding out on a hike. 

I still enjoyed myself though, and it has to be one of the most picturesque of showgrounds, set in Upper Wharfedale and with a backdrop of the famous Kilnsey Crag (below). That's usually swarming with rock climbers - but not on Show Day. 

It has everything you want and more: marquees of crafts and produce, trade stalls, show jumping, sheep and cattle judging, sheep shearing demos, dogs, vintage tractors, drystone walling, harness racing, children's activities, a fun fair and the famous Crag fell races. (Though they take place quite late in the day and I didn't stay for them this year). There was a silver band playing, which I listened to whilst I had my picnic lunch (though there are endless stalls selling food and drink).

It's a grand day out for all the family - and great for 'people watching' too!

Sheep are a serious business... 

... and of course an alpaca had to make an appearance too, one of several pets that are used as therapy animals.