Around St Andrews

Fife holiday 2026 #14

I really enjoyed wandering around St Andrews, fairly aimlessly really, just seeing what I could discover.

There's been a settlement here since the Iron Age but the town really began as an ecclesiastical centre in the 8th century when a monastery was established, holding some relics associated with St Andrew. Construction of the present town began in the 1100s and it became a place of pilgrimage. The university was founded in 1413 and is now ranked consistently among the top five UK universities. The town declined steadily throughout the 17th and 18th centuries and even the university, the third oldest in the UK, was considering relocating. In the mid-19th century, Hugh Lyon Playfair, provost of St. Andrews, was credited with improving the burgh, the University and the Golf Club. Today, St Andrews is served by education, golf, tourism and the conference industry.

The centre is a wonderful mix of old (very Scottish in style) buildings and more modern inserts. It has, effectively, four main streets in parallel, which hold some of the university buildings, the shops, numerous cafés and civic buildings. Many of the university buildings have been renovated, extended or built as new in a pleasingly sympathetic way. I think initially it was a collegiate university like Oxford and Cambridge but now it seems to be managed as one entity, with all its various schools of study. 

It was one of those places where it was worth ambling up little alleyways and through gates; you never knew what you'd find. I discovered this fairly well-hidden quadrangle, St Mary's Quad, with some magnificent trees including the Great Holm Oak, planted in 1740. It's surrounded by lovely old buildings, one of which houses the St James Library. 

There's a statue of Bishop Henry Wardlaw, a founder of the university, beside a ruined arch which was once a boundary gateway c1420.   

Along South Street, I popped in to Holy Trinity Church, some of which dates back to 1412 but most of it rebuilt in 1907. It was a beautiful space, enhanced by the wonderful flower arrangements courtesy of a wedding that had been held that day. The volunteers on duty were very kind and helpful too, so I really enjoyed my visit.

As with most university towns, it has several bookshops, including the magnificent 'Toppings', where I could happily have spent all day browsing. With so many tourists and students, it's not surprising that there are also a huge number of cafés and bars.

Northpoint Café, at the east end of North Street, proudly proclaims that it is 'where Kate met Wills (for coffee)', which presumably is a good recommendation. 

I visited the university museum, the Wardlaw Museum, which has a lot of interesting information about the history of the university, the University's extraordinary art, history, science and natural history collections and the research and inventions that have had an impact on the world. It was modern, well curated and displayed. I enjoyed browsing. Outside there's a statue of St Andrew, attributed to Sir John Steell (1804-1891) and apparently a copy of one in St Peter's Basilica in Rome. 

It's easy to forget that this is a seaside town but the coastal vista from the viewing terrace at the museum was stunning. 

St Andrews - St Salvators

Fife holiday 2026 #13

The unexpected gem of my perambulation of St Andrews was the beautiful college chapel of St Salvator, dating back to 1450 but much changed since then (largely due to the Protestant Reformation when it was stripped of most of its iconography). What we see now owes much to the Gothic Revivalist style popular in Victorian times, and some sympathetic modern additions, but the chapel retains a dignity and serenity that I found most appealing. 

Behind it is a quadrangle of university buildings. I gather that the Prince and Princess of Wales resided in St Salvator's Hall during their first year at St Andrew's University (which is famously where they met) but the buildings behind the chapel are not the student halls of residence, which lie beyond. 

As I was nearing the Chapel, a large tour bus stopped outside to deposit its passengers. I upped my pace in order to get inside before they did! So I at least had a few peaceful moments to myself, and took all the interior shots with my phone in order to speed up the process. I am quite pleased with how they turned out.  

As I left the Chapel, I noted a man in a full Scottish kilt outfit entering. I then realised that there was about to be a wedding. Guests were gathering outside the main entrance on the street side of the Chapel and there was a bagpiper who began to play, so I was delighted to see that. It was an unexpected bonus, since if I'd arrived a few minutes later I would not have been able to go inside. Serendipity. 

St Andrews - Historical sites

Fife holiday 2026 #11

The plan for the final day of our holiday was to walk from St Andrews to Kingsbarns, a distance of some 7 miles across quite remote country (lots of golf courses again!). I and a couple of friends decided we'd rather spend the day in St Andrews, a university town with a wealth of interesting sights. So we hopped on the bus. I still walked more than 5 miles around the town, so I did get a good workout albeit at a slower pace, with more coffee! 

The bus station was near to the West Port, a gate into the town built in 1589, designed to impress visitors, which it still does I guess. 

My first port of call was the ancient cathedral, now a ruin. I was rather disappointed in it, to be honest, mainly because the grounds were covered in temporary and unsightly metal fences. These have been erected around gravestones and monuments that are judged to be unstable (most of them, in fact!). It seems they are waiting for the relevant families to pay for repairs... but I guess in many cases there is no family left. The dominant structure is St Rule's Tower, part of the original St Rule's Church that preceded the cathedral. Built in the 1100s, it drew pilgrims to the shrine of St Andrew. The Cathedral, consecrated in 1318, was the most important church in medieval Scotland. Part of the grand west entrance still survives. 

There's the foundations of a Cloister and a Chapter House, where the canons would meet to do church business. Several of the priors were buried under its floor and today you can see some of the medieval, stone coffins.

Next stop for me was the harbour, not large by the standards of some we'd already visited but an important presence to the south west of the town. 

Then I meandered along the seafront, passing St Andrews Castle. Destroyed and rebuilt several times during wars between the Scots and the English, it was rebuilt by Bishop Walter Trail in 1400 and became the main residence of the bishops and archbishops of St Andrews and the administrative centre of the Church of Scotland. It was also a notorious prison. It went through many turbulent times, including a siege in the mid 1500s, as a result of the entwining of church and national politics. It was abandoned and finally fell into ruin in the late 1600s. 

Beyond the castle, the seafront road (The Scores) is where many of the university buildings are situated so I wandered along enjoying the grand old buildings and the more modern structures that have been shoehorned in among them. 

 

St Fillan's Cave

Fife holiday 2026 #6

The name Pittenweem comes from the Gaelic, meaning 'place of the cave'. In a sandstone outcrop above Pittenweem harbour, there is a natural cave, probably carved by an underground river thousands of years ago. It is linked to the Irish missionary, St Fillan, who is said to have lived here for several years around AD 640. Inside the Y-shaped cave is a stone altar where pilgrims visit and occasional services are still held.

Fillan is said to have lived in the cave for several years, writing sermons by the light of his luminous left arm! The cave is very dark and damp, so having his own bodily illumination must have been very helpful! 

The cave is next to the medieval wall of Pittenweem Priory, and later the monks carved a stairway and cellar into the solid rock of the cave, linking it to the priory garden. The cave was owned by the Priory from roughly 1221 until 1560, after which it became a fishermen's store and (so they say) a smugglers' hiding place. 

There's a painting in there, depicting St Fillan and another saint. 

The cave entrance is on Cove Wynd, a picturesque lane leading down to the harbour. To gain access, you have to borrow a key from a chocolate shop in the village. The entrance is through a low doorway and there is a small window cut into the rock to admit a little light. These are thought to have been added around 1600. 

The mural on the wall was designed and erected by children from the local primary school. The cave is a fascinating place, though I wouldn't like to have lived in there! 

The Bell Chapel

Following on from yesterday's post, here is the Bell Chapel in Thornton. It was originally built between 1587 and 1612 and had undergone many changes by the time Patrick Brontë became its parson from 1815 to 1820. (He later said this was 'the happiest time of his life'.) In 1872, after he left, a new church was constructed and the Bell Chapel fell into disrepair. The font, where the Brontë children were baptised, has been relocated to the new church of St James, just across the road. Now all that remains of the chapel is one wall and a small anteroom, and the cupola that once graced the roof. It has been tidied up and made safer by volunteers since I last visited. It's now a rather attractive and romantic ruin, sitting in its graveyard, which was full of bluebells. 

Sunny Skipton

The end of April/beginning of May here was warm and sunny, as hot as I can bear it these days. I had to drive over to Skipton one day to collect my new glasses, which are quite a departure from my old ones, the frames being much lighter in colour. You know how it is... When you order them you feel quite excited and then when they arrive you wonder if you've made the right choice... I shall need confirmation from my daughter as to whether or not I have! 

Anyway, it being such a glorious day, I had a wander round town and a walk in the woods. Skipton's high street is long and wide, with the castle and church at the top end. I love the view of the surrounding hills that you get in the distance. I didn't go in the castle this time, but the gatehouse is always worth a photo. 

The roundabout at the top of the high street holds the town's war memorial. 

The town has a market on several days in the week. I've learned to avoid those days when I go to the optician's, as it is much harder to find a parking spot. On non-market days many people like to park on the high street so there's usually more free space in the actual car parks. 

Holy Trinity church is right in front of the castle walls, in prime spot at the top of town. I think its setting is quite attractive. 

My last photo is looking up towards the church from the high street. It's a busy junction so I was lucky to avoid having vehicles in the shot. 

PS: Since writing this post, I've seen my daughter and she approves of my new glasses. She did, however, notice that what I thought was an etched pattern on the side arms is in fact the brand logo and says 'Range Rover'. 😆 We decided I should have gone for the upgraded version with windscreen wipers and indicators! 😂 😂

St Paul's Road, Shipley

St Paul's, Shipley's original parish church, was built in 1826, after the Church Building Act 1818 (known as the 'Million Act') granted money from the government specifically for the building of new churches to support the growing population. I think originally it was on the edge of the town but gradually housing grew up around it. I'm not sure but I'd guess the large property opposite (on the left of my photo; now flats or possibly a care home, I think) dates to around the turn of the 19th/20th centuries. It has that unusual corner tower, something that isn't commonplace around here. 

It also has a lovely, mature magnolia tree in the garden, which for a brief spell each year really adds some beauty to the scene.