A pretty stretch of the Wharfe

The length of the River Wharfe between Burnsall and Hebden suspension bridge must be one of the most attractive and scenic along its whole route. It varies between calm, slow moving stretches and narrower, more turbulent sections where it cuts through limestone cliffs. 

There's a good footpath that, when it reaches the suspension bridge, crosses over from one bank to the other to continue up to Grassington. And that bridge!... It's so long that it has a rather alarming bounce and sway in the middle section! A lady had to carry her dog across as it refused even to contemplate walking. 

The greenery on either side is lush and there are lots of wildflowers, including patches of delicate blue harebells, which were a favourite of my mum's.

There are gates and stiles - though this one seemed a bit redundant! 

Dales villages

Trying to fit a walk in between heavy showers has been the general trend in July and August so far. Whereas June was very hot and very dry, since then it has been wetter and cooler than average (though in many ways I prefer that. I don't 'do' heat well.) Anyway, one day I managed a circular walk - mainly dry - between the villages of Hebden (pictured above and below) and Burnsall, some of it along the banks of the River Wharfe. (By the way, Hebden is not related to Hebden Bridge where my daughter lives.) Both Hebden and Burnsall are typical Dales villages with stone buildings, many of them dating back to the 17th century. Hebden village originally grew up where a medieval drovers' route crossed Hebden Water but it expanded in the 18th and early 19th centuries when a textile mill and lead mining in the surrounding area brought employment. It's now powered mainly by farming and tourism, with a few people choosing to live here and commute to Skipton or Harrogate. 

Both villages are now popular with tourists and walkers. Burnsall (below) in particular gets inundated with cars on sunny days. It has a good pub, a couple of cafés and a large area of grass (the village green) alongside the river, which is popular for picnics and ball games. The river here is shallow enough for paddling. 

There are some pretty cottages in both villages, some of which are now holiday lets. Even in the rain (which set in later on in the afternoon) the old stone buildings look attractive. 

Timeless

Hebden is a conservation area and a very well-kept, attractive village. Some of the properties are second homes or rented out as holiday cottages but there is a resident population too. I wandered some of the little lanes and was charmed by the timeless feel of it. Although most of the properties have clearly been subject to restoration, it has all been done very tastefully and apparently in keeping with the history of the village. The gardens too are very well kept.

Old chimney pots make useful containers for plants - and I suspect the door pictured, which was in the basement of one property and had a barred window, might at one time have been the village lock-up. I may be wrong, but it had that feel. Most villages did have a place where trouble makers could be slung to cool off or before being sent for trial elsewhere.

I also spotted an old gravestone being used in a wall - waste not, want not!

I was charmed by this very lush garden tumbling down to the stream.

Hebden

On my way back from my walk around Grimwith Reservoir, I really fancied a drink and an ice cream. I'd seen how busy Grassington was, so I decided to stop in the much smaller village of Hebden (not to be confused with Hebden Bridge, which is miles away in Calderdale!) It's a pretty village, now a conservation area, with houses clustered around a stream that runs down to join the River Wharfe. For a tiny village it has a lot of amenities: a hotel, a pub and a tearoom, not to mention the small church and a chapel.

Happily the tearoom was really lovely, with lots of seating outside in pleasant gardens. It is housed in what was formerly the village primary school. (I suppose any children in the village are now bussed to school in Grassington.) The tearoom was really well-organised to cope with the COVID situation, with well-spaced tables, plenty of hand sanitiser and other measures - so that it all felt very clean and safe. I really enjoyed my drink and ice-cream.