Fountains Abbey

Since I've run out of current photos until I can go somewhere interesting, and since we've recently had a look at Bolton Priory, I thought I'd repost a collection of my images of Fountains Abbey. Up near Ripon, it's probably one of the UK's most stunning ruined abbeys, now a World Heritage Site. It was a Cistercian monastery, founded in 1132, and became one of the wealthiest in England due to its extensive landholdings. That didn't stop Henry VIII dismantling it in the 1500s, and then it was sold and became part of a landowner's estate, eventually becoming a 'romantic ruin' in a vast garden site. It's now in the care of the National Trust. 

I'll let the photos speak for themselves. It's apparent that I often visit in winter! That avoids some of the crowds that converge in summer, though it's always busy. I just might drive over there again soon, though not until the weather has improved a bit.  For more about it's history, see HERE. 

Foam patterns

The River Skell flows through the Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal estate, entering at the Abbey end (where it was once important to the monastic community as a source of power and food). It is transformed in the middle section into the formal ponds and lakes of the 18th century water gardens, before being released back as nothing more than a stream, which then flows towards Ripon, joining the River Laver before being subsumed into the River Ure. Despite the ongoing rainfall of the last few months, the stream was little more than a trickle, before drying up more or less completely (perhaps flowing underground?) At the final pool, a large amount of foam had formed (perhaps agricultural run-off?) and swirled into patterns that I found quite photogenic. 

Seven Bridges Valley Walk

From the lakeside at Studley Royal, there is a path up through a valley that is known as 'The Seven Bridges Valley Walk'. It's been on my list to explore for a long time, so I'm pleased to have finally ticked it off. The walk follows the River Skell up a narrowing valley. The river was originally criss-crossed by seven ornamental wooden bridges in a Chinese Lattice style but when they deteriorated they were replaced by rustic stone arched bridges, of which only five remain. There's also a ford by each bridge, used by carriages that transported the Aislabie's guests on tours around the estate. 

There are some wonderful old trees, their bark now twisted and rough. Up above on the hillsides there were apparently some monuments and follies, as in the more formal gardens on the estate, but most of these have disappeared. 

Leaving the valley, you climb steeply up through a wooded area, eventually arriving at Mackershaw Lodge, a strange arched structure whose purpose is not really known, though it was most likely simply another focal point on the estate. 

From there, the walk passes downhill through open fields, returning to the lakeside. Around 300 deer live on the estate and some were grazing there. They looked up as I passed (at a sensible distance!) but were curious rather than spooked. I think these were red deer, though there are also fallow deer and Manchurian sikas in the deer park.  

The bad news, following my walk, was that, a day or so later, I discovered a tick attached to my shin, most likely picked up from the deer park. I removed it as soon as I saw it and can only pray it wasn't one of the estimated 2 - 4% of ticks in the UK that carry Lyme Disease. I'll have to keep an eye on the bite and make sure I don't develop a rash or any other symptoms. 😟  I think it is peak tick season and it's been so wet and rather warmer than average, so there are possibly more about. Nasty things, though as far as I'm aware it's the first time I've been bitten. 

Studley Royal

I enjoyed a trip to the World Heritage Site of Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal recently. In the 18th century, the ruined abbey was incorporated into a pleasure garden by the landowners, the Aislabie family. Rather than visit the Abbey and gardens this time (which I have done countless times before) I explored the wider area, which is a deer park with acres of fields and trees. 

From the main drive at this end of the estate, you can see just how careful the planning of the gardens was. At one end stands a ceremonial gatehouse, with Ripon Cathedral visible in the distance. 

Turn round and the drive leads right up to the Victorian Gothic Revival church. 

The drive at this point is at a higher level than the Water Gardens, and there's a lovely view across the lake and along the first of the ornamental ponds. 

I didn't go into the formal gardens this time, but there is a tearoom at the gate where I had a cuppa. A lady was up a ladder applying gold leaf to the ornamental crest on the entrance gates, quite painstaking work. 

If you'd like to see more photos of this world-class heritage site, click the 'Fountains Abbey' label below:

St Mary's and the boggarts

Beyond Studley Royal Water Gardens and the ruins of Fountains Abbey there is a deer park with a large area of grassland and some huge, ancient trees, some of which now lie fallen and decaying. In the middle is St Mary's Church, a High Victorian Gothic Revival masterpiece built in the 1870s by the architect William Burges. It was commissioned by the Marquess of Ripon as a memorial after a family tragedy. 

I was interested by the echo of the church's shape in the semi-derelict tree in front of it. Closer inspection of the tree provided some wonderful boggarts (or perhaps gargoyles) lurking in the wood. See what you can spot. Pareidolia is alive and well here!

Studley Royal water gardens

Even though I visited Fountains Abbey fairly recently, on a sudden whim a friend and I set off for another visit there, to see photographs of the World Heritage Site taken during lockdown by the landscape photographer Joe Cornish, which are currently on display there.  This time we spent more time exploring the Studley Royal end of the estate, rather than the abbey itself. The water gardens were laid out in the early 18th century by the landowner John Aislabie and his son, William. (See HERE). John's political career had foundered (he was Chancellor of the Exchequer and was implicated in the South Sea Bubble crisis) and he retired in 1720 to his Yorkshire estate, with a vision to impress visitors with a breath-taking formal garden, studded with classical statues, follies and garden buildings. William later bought the ruins of Fountains Abbey, conveniently next door, as a romantic ruin to complete the gardens. 

On Good Friday

I really feel the need to stop and reflect on this Good Friday. Over two thousand years ago, a man was put to death on a cross. For his friends it felt like the end. But it wasn't. As a Christian, I believe in the God who is Hope, Love and Peace. Hope will rise from the ashes and the despair. Love will help and heal. Peace will come. 

'Make me a channel of your peace.'     St Francis of Assisi

'God of love, we are disconcerted by the violence in our world, and especially now by the acts of war in Ukraine. Enable us to stand in solidarity with those who suffer, and who live today in fear and anxiety. Sustain the hope of all those who seek justice and peace. Send the Holy Spirit, the Spirit of peace, to inspire the leaders of nations and all human beings.'           Brother Alois, Taizé

Swanley Grange

Part of the Fountains Abbey estate, Swanley Grange was one of the abbey's home farms. It has recently been renovated to provide a glimpse into medieval monastic life, with a vegetable garden and various craft activities, including wool spinning, dyeing and knitting. There was nothing actually being demonstrated (mid-week and mid-winter) when I visited but there was an attractive display of spinning wheels and wool, dyed using natural plant dyes. The spiky teasel heads (above) were used to brush woollen fabric to create a raised nap. 

The subdued, natural dyes produce very attractive, softly coloured, finished knits, here combined in squares into quilts. I couldn't help but notice the resemblance to the stonework used in the buildings' construction, which also showed a multitude of subtle colours. It all made my heart sing. 

Fountains Hall and Mill

After the Dissolution of the Monasteries by Henry VIII, Fountains Abbey was sold. Between 1598 and 1604 the new owner, Stephen Proctor, built a mansion in the grounds, partly constructed of stone from the ruined Abbey itself. It's a fine example of a late Elizabethan 'prodigy house': grand, showy houses built to impress.  

It passed through the hands of several families and was later used to house evacuees from a school during WWII. It fell into dilapidation after the war and was restored by the National Trust in the 1980s. It is now one of the many fascinating, historic buildings that the National Trust rents out as holiday lets. 

Close to Fountains Hall, there is Fountains Mill, a water mill built by the Cistercian monks in the 12th century to grind the grain to supply the monastery with bread and ale. It was continually in use until 1927, and was also used as a sawmill and a stone masons' yard. One of the waterwheels is still in working order. The building is apparently the oldest standing (non-ruined) building in England in the care of the National Trust. 

You can still ring the bell that presumably reminded the lay brothers of their start and finish times, and perhaps the times of prayer during the day. 

Fountains Abbey

I'm sure many people knew that my 'tiny planet' yesterday was made from a panoramic shot of the famous Fountains Abbey, near Ripon, North Yorkshire, now in the care of the National Trust.  A former Cistercian monastery, founded in 1132, it became one of the wealthiest monasteries in England by the mid-1200s, thanks to its extensive land holdings farmed by lay brothers, and sales of wool. It later suffered problems with disease in its sheep, raids by the Scots into the north of England, and finally the Black Death (1348-49) which decimated the population. The Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1539 was the end of that story, but the estate was sold to gentry and a mansion (Fountains Hall) was built, partially from stone from the Abbey itself. In the 1700s, John and William Aislabie linked the Abbey site with neighbouring Studley Royal to form extensive, landscaped water gardens and a deer park, with the abbey ruins as a romantic centrepiece. The whole estate is now a designated World Heritage Site. 

There are lovely views of the ruins from the banks of the River Skell, which runs alongside. 

Enough of the buildings survive to give a good idea of the size of the monastery and the use of its various parts.

The floor plan of the abbey church is clear, with the 49m high tower, added in the early 1500s, still largely intact.

To my mind, the most atmospheric part is the vaulted Cellarium, originally divided up into storerooms, whose pillars supported the lay brothers' dormitory above. I love its soaring arches and the play of light and shade.