Sojourn in Paris #3

Paris 2025 - Around The Louvre

My daughter could easily have a successful career as a specialist travel consultant. She loves - and is extremely good at - planning travel, holidays and trips. It made it easy for me... all I had to do was to follow closely as she navigated the Parisian streets. I could just enjoy the sights, which were especially alluring at night with all the lights, without really worrying about where we were going. Thus it was that I was enjoying the moon and the wonderful architecture... 

...when we rounded a corner and I suddenly realised we'd reached The Louvre, originally a royal palace and now one of the most famous art museums in the world. The iconic glass pyramid, completed in 1989, designed by I M Pei, is the main entrance to the galleries. It looked rather amazing all lit up. 

Opposite, we found the Arc De Triomphe du Carrousel (not to be confused with the bigger Arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile on the Champs-Élysées). The Carrousel is a Neoclassical triumphal arch built between 1806 and 1808 to commemorate Napoleon's victories - again, it's rather wonderfully lit. 

From the vantage point of the Jardin des Tuileries, you could see in the distance the landmark Eiffel Tower. At night it's lit with gold and has a revolving beacon, like a lighthouse. Then, for five minutes every hour, it also sparkles with white lights, which we happened to be there at the right time to see. All very pretty, as were the twinkly models that a few vendors were selling. 

All along the side of the Tuileries garden, a Christmas market was in full swing, with gifts, food stalls and  funfair rides. It was very crowded so we didn't explore it but it was fun to see. 

Sojourn in Paris #2

Paris 2025 - At night

After our meal we just wandered the streets, soaking up the atmosphere and enjoying the sights. The Hausmann renovation project, commissioned by Napoleon III between 1853 and 1870 to modernise the medieval city and rid it of its narrow streets and poor sanitation, has resulted in Paris's wide, straight boulevards and distinctive architecture. There are now cycle lanes along both sides of many of the streets and I lost count of the times I was nearly mown down by a speeding cyclist! 

I just took photos of whatever caught my eye as we wandered along. I wasn't really noticing where we were but I think I've identified where most of these images were taken. The arch below is Porte Saint-Denis. One of the four triumphal arches in Paris, this 17th century monument commemorates the victories of Louis XIV. 

Passing through numerous 'circles' and parks, we saw a lot of statues, mostly men on horseback. This one is (I think) in the elegant Place des Victoires and is the afore-mentioned Louis XIV. 

Galerie Vivienne, built in 1823, is a stylish arcade of luxury shops.

We skirted the Jardin du Palais Royal, mysterious in the moonlight. 

We then walked through the courtyard of the Palais Royal. Another former royal palace (Paris is littered with them!) it was built in the 1630s, though extensively altered since then. It was once the home of Cardinal Richlieu.

On the Rue St Honoré, the Café Nemours at the side of the square called the Place Colette looked very atmospheric. It's been used several times as a film location. 

Sojourn in Paris #1

Paris 2025 - Julien Bouillon

My daughter and I just spent a long weekend together in Paris, which was a real treat, both to enjoy her company and to explore a city that I have not visited for a good few years. 

We flew from Manchester and, although it's not really that far, it took all day to get there. We got an early train to the airport. There was the usual waiting around pre-flight, then a very long (over an hour) queue at Border Control at Paris CDG, as the EU is introducing a new biometric entry system. Everyone had to get their photos and fingerprints taken (though for some reason they didn't bother with my fingerprints!) Then we had a longish train and metro journey to our accommodation. 

We'd booked an evening meal at a restaurant called Julien Bouillon, which my daughter had spotted online. It was rather an amazing place - and good that we had a booking, since there was a queue of would-be diners outside. It's said to be 'one of the most beautiful restaurants in Paris, if not the world'. It's a wonderfully preserved example of the Art Nouveau style. The building was constructed in 1906 by the French architect Edouard Fournier. It has stunning ceramic tiles and plasterwork, ornate stained glass panels in the ceiling and a beautifully carved mahogany bar. It was decorated by a number of exceptional craftspeople: Armand Segaud (peacock panels), Charles Buffet and Georges Guenne (stained glass), Hippolyte Boulenger (ceramic tiles), Louis Majorelle (woodwork), amongst others.

The four panels of 'flower women' depicting the four seasons, created by master glassmaker Louis Trezel, were inspired by Alfons Mucha's distinctive Art Nouveau designs. The building was renovated in 2018, when they discovered that the original wall colour was céladon green rather than beige, so it has been restored with that colour.

A ‘bouillon’ is a restaurant first created in the late 19th and early 20th centuries serving traditional French cuisine, in particular a ‘bouillon’ (broth). The purpose of the ‘bouillon’ was to serve good quality food at affordable prices. In 1900, nearly two hundred and fifty bouillons could be found in Paris. Today, Julien is one of only a small handful of authentic restaurants of this kind that remain in the French capital. Still very affordable too!

As for the food, well, it was tasty. I just had a main course of smoked pork loin, sauerkraut and potatoes. My daughter enjoyed onion soup and smoked pollock brandade, then we shared a crème brûlée. It was remarkably good value. 

A memorable start to our weekend away! 

Christmas knit wit

Even with my newly discovered love of knitting, I don't think I'll be bothering with post box toppers! Whilst I can appreciate the skill that goes into them, they seem akin to 'graffiti' to me. This one (crocheted) has recently appeared on a post box nearby. 

Knitted figures are perhaps more appealing, especially if you want gifts for children. Our local yarn shop has a number of them with a Christmassy theme in the window. 

Gladys Cooper

The remainder of my little postcard collection, which I started to document here a few months ago, is pictures of an actress, Gladys Cooper (1888-1971).  I remember being fascinated by her and by the wide variety of pictures of her so I started to collect them. 'Dame Gladys Constance Cooper, DBE was an English actress, theatrical manager and producer, whose career spanned seven decades on stage, in films and on television. Beginning as a teenager in Edwardian musical comedy and pantomime, she starred in dramatic roles and silent films before the First World War.'

She continued working in film, stage and TV right up until the 1970s. 

 One postcard is used, though must have been posted in an envelope as there is no address. 

'Dear Nellie  How as (sic) work gone down today, I expect you will be properly done up. I got home in fairly record time. It must have been the rain that help me along. I am not feeling like work today, could just do with a day in bed. I don't think never mind hell. I might have the good fortune to win Tit Bits or Ideas (?) compin (coupon? competition?) some of these days. When the world comes to an end. Sorry I have not any news, Dear but will have more on Wednesday night. Hope you like the postcard. She looking very downhearted. With Best Love From Your Loving Sweetheart, Billy G.  X (a kiss) Only one (I don't think)' 

Aw, how sweet. That’s what we all used to do before email and texts! 

Gladys and her daughter Joan, born in 1910.

Christmas Tree Festival #2

 

Guides, Brownies, Rainbows and a local Nursing Home supplied colourful, prettily lit trees displayed down the side aisle of St Paul's Church. 

Cliffe House Day Nursery had the clever idea of making a tree out of green handprints, decorated with ornaments the children had painted. 

Shipley Baby Bank is a recently founded group that supplies baby clothes, nappies and other necessary items to help new parents. I'm intending that some of my knitting projects will go their way. 

I omitted to write down the name of the group sponsoring the Remembrance tree but I'm fairly sure it was St Paul's Mothers' Union, commemorating the 80th anniversary of the end of WWII. (Oops, no - it was Leela's Ladybirds, which is a childcare provider - see comments). 

The Zephaniah Trust, who take music and Christian worship into our local schools, had decorated their tree with stars and angels made from sheet music. 

Woolly (below) paid homage to Bradford's wool heritage and our City of Culture 2025. All the decorations were made by volunteers at Scraptastic, a fabulous store that recycles craft items and rescued trade waste to be re-used in creative projects. 

Christmas Tree Festival #1

On the same evening as the town's Christmas lights were switched on, Shipley's St Paul's Church held its annual Christmas Tree Festival. The church looked very inviting from the outside, with warm lights sparkling through the stained glass windows. 

Inside there were thirty two decorated trees, each sponsored by a local community group. The variety and ingenuity always amazes me and it's heartwarming to know just how many local groups are thriving, making a huge difference to the lives of children and adults in our area. 

Most of the trees have hand crafted decorations. I loved the little pink angel with her smiley face. The beautifully decorated stars, below, were made by members of St Paul's Active Seniors group. 

Some of the trees make it very clear what the group is involved with. The Bradford North Foodbank had one covered in tins and packets of the food they collect and distribute to those who need the support. 

The Baildon, Shipley and Saltaire Men's and Ladies Shed, based in Northcliffe Park, work to improve wellbeing, reduce loneliness and combat isolation, raising funds by selling crafts they make, like the little wooden reindeer in front of their tree. The tree itself was a skilful and innovative creation made from logs. 

 

The lost generation

I'm scraping the barrel somewhat here, as I've pretty much run out of decent photos to post. I've been really busy the last few weeks but not the kind of busy that has taken me anywhere photogenic. 

My uncle Colin, one of dad's brothers, died recently. Aged 91 and in frail health, his death wasn't unexpected, but it still feels significant. He was ten years younger than my father and when I was born he was only 17. That means my earliest memories of him are of his playfulness. They say that some of my first words as a toddler were 'Up the Stags', the Stags being the local football team - and guess who taught me to say that?  Another vivid recall is of when I was dressed in my 'nurse's outfit', aged about four I guess, and my uncle was my 'patient'. He groaned and writhed around so realistically that I got scared and thought he really was ill! He was a competent cricketer, playing in the local village team. I remember weekends at my grandma's, the womenfolk making sandwiches for the 'cricket teas' and then going to watch Colin and his younger brother play. He was also a master player of 'the bones' - a folk percussion instrument used in a similar way to playing 'spoons'. He did try to teach me once but with little success. 

It was his funeral in Retford, Nottinghamshire the other day, so of course I attended. The eulogy and all the photos on display reminded family and friends of his great capacity for fun, alongside his caring for others. It is a shock to realise that Colin was the last of my parents' generation, now 'the lost generation'. Now I'm the oldest person in my family! 

I took the train to Retford as it's a long and scary motorway drive from here. I arrived in plenty of time and, as it was a chilly but bright day, I decided I'd walk the two miles to the crematorium, rather than get a taxi. Not an especially pleasant walk as it was on a narrow pavement alongside a fairly busy road, but the sunshine was nice and the landscape different enough from my own locality to be mildly interesting. Retford is a small but very historic market town in the wide, flat, flood plain of the River Idle. It has, tragically, suffered many floods (even quite recently) and fires. In 1528 nearly three quarters of the buildings in the town were destroyed in a fire. In 1916, the local gas works was bombed and blown up spectacularly by a German Zeppelin. It may be a small place but it's had a wild ride over the years!  

The crematorium had a large memorial garden around it, with a small, reed-filled lake providing a quiet spot to sit and contemplate in the gentle, late autumn sunshine. 

A hint of sunshine

More of the artwork I have in my home...

I absolutely adore this little print. I met Rob Friel, the photographer, many years ago: a fellow participant on the first photography workshop I ever attended. We subsequently became Facebook friends and it was on his page that I saw this picture, which I believe he took on holiday in the USA. For some reason I fell in love with it and asked Rob if I could buy a print. He very kindly sent me a copy as a gift and I've had it on my wall ever since, now happily hanging in my study. I've never been quite sure exactly what about it appeals to me so much. It's quite a simple image; its square format, the 'magic' three trees and a gentle colour palette give it - to me - a calming, almost Zen-like quality. Those little yellow flowers shyly peeping out from behind the birch trunks bring a hint of sunshine. Gorgeous. I love it every time I look at it. 

 

Christmas comes

My home is a resolutely Christmas-free zone at least until December. Not so for our town centres, which milk the season as a commercial enterprise and switch on the lights before the end of November. I happened to need to pop into Shipley anyway, which coincided with the Shipley lights celebration. I was pleased to see that, now the market square has been expensively revamped, they have eschewed the silly modern tree they've had for a few years (just a few wires and lights) in favour of a real fir tree - and it looked quite pretty. So did the banners dotted around the square. 

There were masses of people milling around, with market stalls selling Christmassy items and advertising local groups and services. One was a local amateur dramatic group, Drama Unlimited, which has been performing shows since 1977. They were colourfully dressed to promote their production of 'Goldilocks and the Three Bears', coming to Bingley Arts Centre in February. 

The Kirkgate Centre has a herd of reindeer on its roof. I'm sure they'll thrill the little ones coming to the nursery next door.